Having decided that I need to get a better grounding in the history of East and Central Asia’s major players, I just bought China: A New History, by John King Fairbank and Merle Goldman; A History of Japan, by R. H. P. Mason and J.G. Caiger; and Russia and the Russians: A History, by Geoffrey Hosking. My plan is to read about a given era in China and Japan, then read about it in Ki-Baik Lee’s A New History of Korea, thus getting an overall sense of East Asian history and a clearer understanding of what outside events Korean history is developing against. (The Russian history I can tackle later.)
[what i do around here]
For much of the year, the UN is out of session, so I don’t really have any speechwriting duties. I have a great deal of free time that I can spend however I want — writing a novel, say, or blogging — and I try to devote at least a portion of that time to doing research in relevant areas. Right now, for example, I’m reading Ki-baik Lee’s A New History of Korea. At other times, I’ve put some effort into learning a little Korean, read books on the UN, read through the latest issue of Foreign Affairs, read a bunch of speeches on Security Council reform.
But I do have more immediate duties. Sometimes the tasks have a political flavor, like looking up books on Afghanistan for Ambassador Chun (though these were to send to his son, who’s stationed there). Often, though, my role is just to help the Mission officers to negotiate the confusions of American life. Yesterday, for example, Young and I went through an auto insurance form for one of the officers. Or the other day, one of the officers called me into his office to ask me about breaking his lease in New Jersey and was very reassured when I told him that the worst they could possibly do to him was sue him for the two months’ rent he was getting out of — and that was an unlikely possibility, considering that he’s leaving his apartment to go to Iraq.
And then there are the diplomatic confusions, as when one of the ambassadors had to respond to a Christmas card but wasn’t sure who it was from. His secretary came into our office wielding a card with stripes of black, yellow and red across one corner; a complicated coat of arms involving a bird, a gazelle-looking thing and an African shield with a drum on it; and an inscrutable signature, followed by “DPR.” Looking at our trusty world map with all the flags on it, we worked out that the only countries with the right colors on their flags, in the right order, were Belgium and Uganda, and I couldn’t believe Belgium would have African stuff on its coat of arms (or its Christmas card), considering its unsavory history there. Then I Googled “Uganda coat of arms” and found that indeed, the card was from Uganda. Next came figuring out who the DPR (deputy permanent representative) was. This time Young worked it out, referring to our “Blue Book” of all the UN missions and their senior staffs.
So this is what I do when I’m not writing speeches.
[eating for their country]
I once heard that an American diplomat described his job as “Eating for my country.” My experience of the diplomatic life so far suggests that he wasn’t kidding.
Last Wednesday the local staff at the Mission, along with a number of lower-level Koreans, were invited out for Korean barbecue at Woo-Chon, a sprawling restaurant on 35th Street in Koreatown. I ended up seated away from Charles and Young, so I was pretty much left to socialize with Koreans, using their limited English and my even more limited Korean. The food was fantastic — two different kinds of beef barbecued at the table, plus seafood pancakes and the usual vast array of side dishes — and the drink flowed freely. Along with the usual soju, there was also a Korean grape wine that came in bottles shaped like soccer balls and tasted like Manischewitz. I was informed by one of the Koreans that this concoction would strengthen my arms and legs — especially my third leg. “Go home, make baby,” he assured me. Meanwhile, Mr. Yoon, sitting across from me, was working his way through all the toasts he could come up with: konbe and another Korean toast that I’ve forgotten, then “Salud!” and finally rounds of “Hallelujah!” (This was especially funny because Mr. Yoon is a Buddhist who grew up just minutes from the famous Bulguksa temple in Kyongju.) He was terribly pleased when I taught him “l’chaim,” and once I was drunk enough, I celebrated a round with “Taehan Mingook,” the formal name of the Republic of Korea and a popular chant during World Cup. At some point the discussion turned to the fact that my first name — Joshua — sounds like a Korean three-syllable name. It was decided that my Korean name would be “Cho Syu-wa,” which made me kin to Ms. Cho, one of the administrative assistants. I told Mr. Yoon that I would be Cho Syu-wa if I could have a name stamp. I asked him the word for name stamp in Korean, and he thought for a moment, then declared, “Right now, I don’t remember.”
We staggered out of the restaurant at about 9:30 and made our separate ways home. My clothes smelled so strongly of barbecue and smoke that I had to leave my dirty laundry in the bathroom on the far side of the apartment so we could sleep.
The next day was a “brown bag lunch” with Professor Gari Ledyard, a leading scholar of Korean History — though retired, he holds for life the title of King Sejong Professor of Korean Studies at Columbia University. The “brown bag” aspect was a misnomer, however, as sandwiches and fruit were provided. Professor Ledyard spoke on the topic of Korean-Chinese diplomatic relations through history.
Then on Friday, one of the lower-level officers came to ask me if I had any appointments over lunch. When I said no, he informed me that Minister Lee would like my company. The lunch included Charles as well, and the four of us ate at Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse. I had a moment of chagrin as I realized I was now one of those UN officials you read about discussing the disaster in Darfur over filet mignon. Then we moved on to Ambassador Kim’s golf game, which is apparently quite good. Still, the major focus of the conversation, as of so many lately, was Security Council reform. I was pleased that Minister Lee seemed genuinely interested in my opinions, at one point declaring, “I think Mr. Joshua is very eloquent!” I’m not sure whether this meant, “I think Josh has well-stated opinions” or “I think Josh talks too much, and this is my way of saying so politely,” but I like to hope it was at least some of the former.
On Wednesday this week, I will be taken out by Ambassador Shin to Osteria Laguna, where I will perhaps not order the beef. And then we have our “End-of-the-year Ceremony” on December 30, the nature of which remains mysterious, but which I suspect will involve food. Such are the challenges of the diplomatic life!
[oil for food]
A friend of mine recently decribed the oil-for-food scandal as feeling to him a bit like Whitewater in the early days: the sheer volume of accusations makes it feel like there must be something going on, but it’s nearly impossible to get a handle on just who is accused of what sort of wrongdoing.
Now Slate provides a helpful guide to who did what. Note the conclusion:
The program did save lives: Average daily calorie intake nearly doubled in Iraq from 1996 to 2002. And Saddam never reconstituted the nuclear weapons program that was the ostensible reason for last year’s invasion. The greatest tragedy of the oil-for-food program may be that, for all its Byzantine corruption, we never realized just how effective it was.
[british hip-hop]
Lady Sovereign
There is some phenomenally cool hip-hop coming out of the UK these days. Lady Sovereign is my most recent discovery (via Sticker Shock), and it was also from Sticker Shock’s Sasha Frere-Jones that I learned about M.I.A., who’s originally from Sri Lanka. And let’s not forget the standbys, The Streets and Dizzee Rascal. Quite a scene indeed!
[not even with the sound off?]
Recently Hanh released a revised Pratimoksha, or book of monastic rules, that tries to take into account the challenges of the modern world. My friend Daniel, an avid video gamer, discovered one new rule banning video games. I wonder if bikhus will still be able to watch the World Cup?
[even weirder than the lap pillow?]
[sad little kyrgyzstan]
From the November/December 2004 issue of Foreign Affairs:
ERRATUM
“Saving Iraq From Its Oil,” an essay published in the July/August issue, included Kyrgyzstan on a list of “less-developed countries with significant oil and natural gas resources.” Kyrgyzstan does not have abundant oil or natural gas resources.
What Kyrgyzstan does have is a predominantly agricultural economy, a per capita income of $330 , and trouble with Uzbekistan.
Oh, and a smattering of Koreans. (And no, I don’t know what they mean when they say that the Republic of Korea’s embassy has provided “fiction worth $15,000.” Maybe a few very good short stories?)
[the US mission]
Across the street from the Korean Mission, where I work, is (or rather, was) the United States Mission. I remember noticing it when I first came to work here last summer: a building clad in a complicated concrete latticework that was probably forward-thinking in the 1950s, but that looked like it had been neglected ever since. It seemed to express our attitude toward the UN itself: excited at first, then contemptuous and tight-fisted.
Now that building is being torn down, to be replaced with a new structure on the same spot. It’s been an ongoing project across the street, sometimes fascinating to watch, occasionally terrifying, as when the big flatbed trucks arrived to offload gigantic dumpsters, which came crashing onto the street and stopped rolling just inches from a parked pickup truck.
I’m very much hoping that because the site was already built, they won’t need to do any pile driving. That would suck.
[elevator etiquette]
Yesterday I was engaged in some of the routine business of office life: scrounging around in the well-stocked seventh-floor kitchen for spoons and stir sticks to bring up to our kitchen on the ninth floor. It’s the sort of thing that needs to happen, but that you always look sort of dumb doing.
Spoons and stir sticks in hand, I headed for the elevator, where Sara (note: some names will be changed in this blog, including this one), one of the secretaries, was also waiting. When the elevator doors slid open, there was Ambassador Kim (no name change there — he’s the top man and everyone knows it) standing in the back, looking grim as usual, with a couple of senior diplomats flanking him. Rather than stepping into the elevator, Sara just stood there, and I followed her lead. I wasn’t sure what the deal was, but I figured I should probably show whatever deference she was showing.
I haven’t felt the need to be all that deferential to most of the diplomats here. They seem to see me as something like them, or at least on the level of the lowest-ranked diplomats. They talk policy with me and respect my work — it is, after all, their words that I shape — so I’m not treated like the secretaries and administrators. (Another key difference is that I’m a man; Korean culture is still quite sexist, and there are only two female officers at the mission, whereas all the secretaries are women.) With the ambassadors — that is, with the deputy permanent representatives — I’m more deferential, but not particularly more than I would be in the office of a VP at a company, although I try to lay on what little Korean etiquette I know: give things with two hands, bow, throw out a polite-formal greeting in Korean when I think of it.
But Ambassador Kim is different. Everyone shows him a great deal of respect, and in ways that feel fundamentally different from the respect that is shown to, say, the CEO of a major American company. I’d be careful and respectful around a CEO, but I wouldn’t bow low and scurry ahead of him to open doors, as the Koreans tend to for Ambassador Kim. When I see the ambassador, I try to behave as respectfully as possible, but I simply lack the set of skills required to do the whole deference thing correctly. I think I’d find it easier to approach the Queen of England correctly.
I have yet to exchange more than a very few words with Ambassador Kim. I once entered his office to hand over a copy of a speech I had written for him — his version is printed in larger type so that it is easier to read at lectern distance — and I believe he grunted at me. But I didn’t work with him on the speech. That was all done through the intermediary of a Counsellor. (You can see the rank structure here.) I have no idea what kind of a man Ambassador Kim is, or whether he’s as dour as he looks. We’re supposed to have lunch with him soon, but it has yet to be scheduled. I’m curious, though, and hope I get a chance to learn more about him soon.