[lack of posts]

Topic: About This Blog

Sorry for the lack of posts lately. Much has been going on in my personal life — a Yosemite vacation, an upcoming move to a new apartment — while the most interesting goings on at the Mission have been personnel issues that I can’t really discuss.

But much is happening at the UN too, and in the larger world. The North Koreans are gonna talk again, and the September summit at the UN should provide some political fireworks. An interesting question is whether the United States will be represented by the embattled John Bolton or by Acting US Permanent Representative Ambassador Anne W. Patterson.

[we’re movin’ on up]

Topic: Personal

We have a new apartment!

On Friday night, Jenny and I signed a one-year lease for our new place, a beautifully remodeled second-floor one-bedroom with a spacious living room and sizeable master bedroom. It’s on Court Street between Nelson and Huntington (compare to our current block and notice the lack of private parking lots and shuttered lots). The only other tenants in the building are a realty downstairs and our friend Robert on the third floor. We move in July 30.

A couple of months back, I issued a slightly premature goodbye to the Gowanus Canal and its immediate environs. Jenny and I were sick of the noise, the garbage, the broken sidewalks, the noise, the creepy thug neighbors, the walk every day through the Gowanus Houses projects, the noise, the weird semivacant lots with shanties in them, and did I mention the noise? Last night, for example, our neighbors felt the need to blast reggaeton in their garden until 3 a.m.

As recently as the beginning of July, though, we were thinking that we could hang on through the end of the noisy season, when the warm weather encourages our neighbors and their friends to linger outdoors with various forms of stereo equipment cranked to the gigawatts, and save our pennies for a move next spring. But it was Yosemite’s Curry Village, of all places, that convinced us that waiting was just not an option if we wanted to keep our sanity.

Curry Village, consisting of densely packed rows of canvas tent-cabins with wooden foundations, is my parents’ preferred lodging option for Yosemite Valley. Less grotty and closer to the cafeteria than Housekeeping and less expensive than Yosemite Lodge or the upscale Ahwahnee, and offering showers (unlike the campgrounds), Camp Curry isn’t a bad deal.

But even if you haven’t just spent a few days and nights in the back country, Curry Village can seem weirdly urban. As a kid, I remember thinking that the soundscape there — utility trucks, clashing car stereos, a cacophony of laughing and shouting kids and adults, the hiss of the air-brakes on the Yosemite Valley shuttle buses — closely resembled what I would hear on summer visits to my grandparents’ Upper West Side apartment. On our latest visit, some of the Curry staff decided they would blast Korn until 11:30 at night, defying the camp security. The throbbing music and the rough construction of the tent-cabins felt painfully like being right back home again, and it filled us with dread at returning to the real thing. Then and there, we decided that we had to move as soon as possible.

Back in Brooklyn, we started looking at apartments in earnest, but the one we really wanted to see was downstairs from our friend Robert. The story behind the apartment, which Robert says has been vacant for over a year, is that the landlord — a Chinese-American woman about our age, who seems to be holding the building for her family — had it remodeled so a relative could move in, except that that never happened. So there are certain charmingly Asian features, like the little cabinet for shoes by the door, and the brand-new, super-high-powered grease vent over the stove (“Chinese cooking uses a lot of oil.”), and when we viewed the place, it was stocked with unused Asian-style furniture.

As far as we can gather, the landlord never quite wanted to face the hassle of putting out an ad and interviewing potential renters, so she was thrilled when Robert told her that some friends of his were interested. As for Robert, he’s relieved that he won’t have to adjust to some potentially creepy strangers moving in downstairs in what has been his private domain for some time.

So we’ll be moving into an apartment that has never been used since its remodeling. And what a remodeling! We were pleased to discover that there are eight circuits, which will be a nice step up from the one circuit for our current apartment. We’re hoping that in our new place, we won’t have to turn off the air conditioner before we make toast, and that we could even heat or cool both rooms simultaneously without having to find a flashlight and make a trek to the basement, as we do in our current apartment.

The bathroom has been redone in pale stone tile, with a beautiful glass-encased shower (though no bath, sadly). The living room has recessed lighting on faders, while the dining room light is a ceiling fan whose blades are fake bamboo. In the bedroom, runners have been installed for drapes.

And beyond the features is simply the workmanship. Our current apartment was more or less put together by our super, Hector, who is something short of entirely competent. Sections of doorframes are too short and don’t reach the floor. There are gaps between floors and walls. The back door fits so poorly that we have to tape it up in winter, and the window above it is plastic. There are holes in walls, leaking radiators, holes in ceilings, cabinet doors that open into nothing. The new place is a welcome contrast, with every detail carefully considered and properly executed.

So we are anxious to move. As for the move itself, we’ve eliminated much of the stress by letting Moishe’s pack everything and then schlep it. Then we can spend the next couple of months putting together our new place, and hopefully by October we’ll be fully settled in.

[hopkirk’s world]

Topic: Inner Asia

They have arrived! To satisfy my ongoing fascination with Central Asia — and, to an even greater extent, Jenny’s fascination — I recently ordered a number of books about the region. First of all, there’s Like Hidden Fire, the third book in Peter Hopkirk’s trilogy on the British struggle to keep India safe from a northern invasion. While the first two books — The Great Game: The Struggle for Empire in Central Asia and Setting the East Ablaze: Lenin’s Dream of an Empire in Asia — deal with Russia’s ambitions, Like Hidden Fire is the story of the German and Turkish plot to launch a pan-Muslim jihad that would take India from the British and the Caucasus from the Soviets.

Then there are a few books by some of the people whose stories Hopkirk has told so vividly. Mission to Tashkent is Colonel F.M. Bailey’s account of his 16 months serving as a British spy in Tashkent during the Russian Civil War, culminating in his being hired, under a false identity, by the fearsome Cheka, the Bolshevik secret police, to go to Bokhara and find one Colonel F.M. Bailey, enemy of the state. Hunted Through Central Asia, is by Paul Nazaroff, a White Russian who led a plot to overthrow the Bolsheviks in Central Asia in 1918. When the plot failed, Nazaroff was forced to flee on a circuitous route that took him from Tashkent overland across the Himalayas and finally to the safety of British “Hindustan.”

The Victorian best-seller A Ride to Khiva takes place in 1875, at the height of the Great Game. It tells the story of Captain Frederick Burnaby, a swashbuckling British officer who spoke seven languages, stood six foot four and weighed 200 pounds. Without authorization, he decided to head off on a thousand-mile journey to see what the Russians were up to in Khiva, which they had conquered and closed to the outside two years earlier.

[yosemite]

Topic: Personal
At six o’clock on June 29, I will leave my office and not return until Monday, July 11. This will be my first vacation since my transition between jobs last summer, and the first time I’ve taken a day off since starting this job last July 27 — almost certainly my longest stretch at any job without giving in to the urge to take a mental health day. And though I love my job, I need a break.

I also need to get out of the city. Oh, how I need to get out of the city! Other than one weekend in DC this winter, I don’t think I’ve been beyond the city limits since Jenny’s sister got married in the spring of 2004.

This is where we’re going:


That’s Buena Vista Lake in Yosemite, which I believe may be cleaner even than the Gowanus Canal. I’ll be backpacking there with Jenny and my parents, brother and sister. I’m not entirely sure which trail we’ll be taking, but I think it’s the Buena Vista trail, which loops around Buena Vista peak. (Do you think there are good views?)

The last time I went backpacking was in 2002, in Nepal, where it’s called trekking, which makes it sound more badass than backpacking, though in fact it’s much simpler because you eat and sleep in trekking lodges (which, admittedly, vary from elegant, well-built hotels to trailside shacks).

And the last time I was in Yosemite? Well, that trip was interrupted by the events of September 11, 2001. Jenny and I were together, reunited after several months apart, and planning to enjoy a short backpack when we heard over the radio in the Glacier Point snack bar that the twin towers in Manhattan were simply gone. Unable to believe what we were hearing, we went ahead with our hike to the Point, fortunately before having seen the images of people tumbling to their deaths from the high floors of the towers. Then we drove down to Curry Village, where the staff had set up a couple of TVs and a crowd had gathered to watch, over and over, the horrifying images: the planes, the explosions, the towers collapsing, the New Yorkers running from the billows of white dust.

So this will be a return to nature and a return to Yosemite that are both long overdue. I don’t think even 9/11 has the power to taint Yosemite for me, but I’d like to go there and come back without there being an act of war against New York City while I’m away, just to make sure.

[airport insecurity]

Topic: Politics

Tommorow will be 1,365 days since September 11, 2001 — the same number of days that passed between the attack on Pearl Harbor (December 7, 1941) and the unconditional surrender of Japan (August 6, 1945).

So what have we been up to since the more recent attack — which, remember, killed 3,030, 627 more than died in the Pearl Harbor attack? Well, Slate today examines our progress on airport security, such as it is.

[every new yorker ever]

Topic: Culture

According to today’s New York Times, the New Yorker magazine will soon be publishing “The Complete New Yorker,” which is, yes, every single issue of the New Yorker ever published, right down to the cartoons, spot drawings and even ads. It will be in DVD format, but for the computer, and amazingly, it’ll only cost $100. No word on whether you’ll be able to print pages, but even if not, that’s an incredible resource.

It’s due this autumn, in time for the holiday season.

[metal mania redux]

Topic: The Mission

Tonight the Korean Mission is hosting a farewell reception for Ambassador Kim, who will be retiring at the end of the month. As part of the preparations for this event, the metal detector that usually stands in our lobby has been removed.

So far as I know, the metal detector doesn’t actually serve any security purpose. People walk through (or past) it all day, and it beeps, and nothing happens. But, I thought, maybe that was because the people passing through were either staff members or approved guests. Maybe, I thought, the metal detector would actually be used for security purposes the next time we had a reception.

But no. The removal of the machine — which is, admittedly, an ugly obstacle — proves once and for all that there is no reason for its being there in the first place.

[what it’s like to teach english in korea]

Topic: Korea

From Overheard in the Office:

Professor #1: You know what I hate? There’s never any TP in the men’s room. You have to bring your own.

Professor #2: Yeah, I know. Unless you buy it at the vending machine.

Professor #1 unspools some paper from a roll on the coffee table.

Professor #1: I just hate using this roll. It’s like telegraphing the whole world you’ve gotta take a dump.

San 69-1
Churye 2-dong, Sasang-gu
Busan City, South Korea

Hey, at least it’s not that rubbery, anti-absorbant pink stuff they sell in Nepal, where you can sometimes still see chunks of wood pulp in it. *shudder*

[the next ambassador]

Topic: The Mission

Beginning next month, our current Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary to the United Nations, Kim Sam-hoon, will be replaced by Dr. Choi Young-jin (pictured). The whispers around the office suggest that where Ambassador Kim was remote and chose to tread softly, Dr. Choi is expected to take be more engaged and active.

Currently the Vice Minister of Foreign Affairs and Trade, he’s held various posts in the Ministry and also served as Permanent Representative to the International Organizations in Vienna. More interesting, though, is his work in the 1990s. From 1995 to 1997, Dr. Choi was Deputy Executive Director of the Korean Peninsula Energy Development Organization (KEDO), where he oversaw the $5 billion effort to construct two light-water nuclear reactors in North Korea, a country he’s visited six times. This will stand him in good stead in his second role, Chairman of the First Committee of the General Assembly, which deals with disarmament and international security. So, presumably, will his stint as Assistant Secretary-General for Peacekeeping Operations in 1998 and 1999, during which he was in charge of planning and support for 17 peacekeeping operations, including those in Kosovo, East Timor, Sierra Leone and the Congo.

Considering that I work on speeches for the First and Fourth committees (the latter oversees peacekeeping), I hold out some hope that I will actually get to work with the new ambassador, or at least talk to him now and then. In the meantime, I can look forward to next Thursday’s farewell reception for Ambassador Kim, where I will eat well, and the Ambassador, as usual, will say not a word to me.

[losing weight]

Topic: Personal

Since I began going to the gym regularly last October, I’ve lost 15 pounds, or about two pounds a month. This is especially exciting to me because the only other way I’ve ever lost any weight is to go to India.

The Indian weight-loss program has its advantages. You take off the weight quickly, and you have the added benefit of an exotic vacation. The result is that you look something like George Harrison: skinny, yes, but also haggard, poorly dressed and in the company of hippies. Then there are the bouts of vomiting, diarrhea, indigestion and nausea, the (often but by no means always) dismal food, the arduous travel from place to place, and the impossibility of keeping the weight off when you find yourself somewhere that serves drinkable water and good hamburgers.

Exercise, by contrast, is boring but sustainable. You can do it in New York, where the food is good. Granted I still look less like this and more like this, but at least the long-term effects of my current regimen won’t make me look like this.