[the quick and the dead]

Topic: Korea

Last night at the Korea Society, I had the opportunity to see Mudang: Reconciliation Between the Living and the Dead, Park Ki-bok’s recent documentary about shamans in contemporary Korea. The film focuses on several shamans, all women, distinguishing between the “hereditary shamans,” who are born to the practice and learn the art from their mothers, and “spiritual shamans,” who become shamans when they are possessed by spirits and work largely from instinct.

There are three stories intertwined. One follows two elderly sisters in a poor southern province as one passes away and the other performs a gut (굿), or ritual, to usher her into the next world. Another explores the life of a spiritual shaman, also a poor farmer, who is regularly possessed by her own mother, who then scolds the woman’s husband mercilessly. In both these stories, we get to see what rural Korean villages have become. They are old-age homes, poor and drab, with all the young people gone to the city, while only the elderly continue to work at hard labor in the fields or attend to the fishing fleets. (No children appear at all for much of the film.) And in both stories, the old women make it clear that being a shaman has been a curse — something that has marked them as different and cost them normal lives — which is why they chose not to pass it on to their children.

The shortest story, but also the climax of the film, is set in the Seoul region, where hereditary shamans are almost nonexistent. Here at last we meet younger people, including a beautiful young shaman who can’t be much older than 40. When one of her client families is having troubles, she performs the dangerous ritual of dancing on a blade, during which she cries out that the family will soon experience mourning. They dismiss the prophecy, but one month later, their eldest son is killed in a construction accident. He was 22.

What follows is the funerary gut, a wrenching, impassioned ritual in which the shaman is possessed by the spirit of the dead son. Weeping, he tells his family how lucky they are to be alive, how much he still wanted to do in life, how sad he is to leave them and enter the ground. His mother, holding onto the spirit stick that conducts the spiritual energy of the ritual, goes wild with grief, flailing and screaming on the floor. The boy’s younger sisters and younger brother are weeping as well, terrified for their mother and tormented by their grief.

But gradually the scene turns. The dead son tells his mother to be strong. He says he will be joining his dead father soon, and that they should place his portrait with his father’s on the 49th day of his death. He tells his younger brother, “Be careful. Beware of fire and water. I believe in you.” And he tells his mother, “All you ever wanted was to give me a hot meal and care for me.” Then he tells her to be strong.

The ritual culminates with the stretching of a long, thin white sheet across the room, on which paper money and a paper construction symbolizing the soul of the dead are guided along the path to the next world. (The money is for travel expenses on the way, though I assume it’s also for the shaman.)

The cathartic power of such a ritual is obvious. Though intensely painful, it provides an opportunity for the family to grieve with the deceased, and for the deceased to give final messages and instructions to the living. It is also an opportunity for the dead to express their han (), which is translated as “bitterness,” but has a more complex meaning encompassing all the repressed resentments and feelings of unfairness and oppression that accumulate over a lifetime. This again can be extremely painful for the mourners, but it also means that no matter how suddenly the deceased may have passed on, there is still a chance to apologize to them for all the little wrongs, to reconcile with them.

Another striking aspect of the film was the way it revealed Koreans as the bluntest people on earth — at least to those people with whom they feel close. It’s a common observation that Koreans, upon seeing your bad haircut or your giant pimple, will point at the hideous thing and ask you about it. To foreigners, this seems unaccountably rude, but it’s actually an expression of friendship: you’re now close enough that you can speak the truth to each other. There is a lovely, sad scene of the two old shaman sisters, one of them partially paralyzed and limited in her speech by a stroke, sitting on their front porch, smoking cigarettes. “What’s happened to you?” the younger one (only in her early eighties) asks her older sister. “You’re an old woman! You used to sleep better than me. You used to have more energy than me. Now you’re old!” To us, that kind of honesty seems brutal, but among Koreans, it seems to be an expression of love.

[breathing yellow]

Topic: Korea


Seoul during this year’s Hwangsa


If you asked me what I thought was the worst thing about the year Jenny and I spent in Korea, my answer would be unequivocal: Hwangsa.

One doesn’t think of Korea as a high-risk location for sandstorms, but each spring, the Korean peninsula is blanketed in yellow dust blown in from the ever-expanding Gobi Desert. The Koreans call it Hwangsa (황사), which literally means “yellow wind.” As you can see from the picture, they’re not exaggerating. And the yellow wind carries more than mere dust: significant quantities of heavy metals such as mercury and lead are also raining down over Korea.

When we were in Korea, we missed the warnings about the impending weather crisis because the warnings were delivered on the Korean news, and no one bothered to tell us about it. On the first yellow morning, half of Jenny’s kindergarten students failed to show up, but she didn’t know why. She took the rest to play outdoors on the rooftop playground, exposing them and herself to a couple of solid hours of the dangerous dust.

She hasn’t been the same since. After that morning, Jenny quickly succumbed to cold symptoms that developed into a sinus infection, coupled with asthma that went undiagnosed and then improperly treated for months. There are some indications that Jenny may have had mild asthma before her exposure to Hwangsa, but it was certainly not as acute as it has been ever since.

This year, the sandstorms are worse than ever, according to the daily Chosun Ilbo, and they will keep getting worse as long as the Gobi Desert keeps growing due to deforestation.

[good writing]

Topic: Culture

“Keep a strict eye on eulogistic & dyslogistic adjectives—They shd diagnose (not merely blame) & distinguish (not merely praise.)”

I ran across this gem of writerly advice, written by C.S. Lewis, in a Slate article today. It sets standards that I routinely fail to meet — this blog falls back on “extraordinary” and “wonderful” and their bland cousins more often than I would like to admit — but it helps to have them articulated so clearly.

Living up to them will be another matter.

[weekly world music 6: global hip-hop]

Topic: Music


Lebanese-French rapper Clotaire K.

Si Senor (YouTube | MP3) by Control Machete (Amores Perros [Soundtrack])

Maqam by Clotaire K (Lebanese)

Funk Neurotico (Track 2) by Unknown (Funky Do Morro website)

해뜰날 (Haeddeulnal) (YouTube) by Drunken Tiger (쇼쇼쇼 [Show Show Show] [Soundtrack])

For those few dead-enders out there who still think rap isn’t music, a sampling of global hip-hop should be instructive. Without the (often idiotic) meaning of the words to distract us, we can listen to the cadences and rhythms of the vocals as pure music — percussive, melodic, emotionally expressive, individual. Perhaps even more remarkable is the way each of these artists transforms what is ostensibly an American musical genre and infuses it with the character of his or her own country.

Mexican group Control Machete is probably the best known of the rappers I’ve posted today, having been featured in the Amores Perros soundtrack and in a Superbowl ad for Levi’s.

Clotaire K is of Lebanese and Egyptian parentage and raps in English, French and Arabic, blending the sounds of Arabic orchestral pop with the fierce mid-range rhythms of gangsta rap. I discovered his music in an Arabic music shop in Carroll Gardens, and I don’t know much more about him.

Even harder to get a fix on is baile funk, the emerging sound of Rio de Janeiro’s favelas, which have been thrumming with music at least since the days of Black Orpheus. The difference now is that it has become cheaper to use computers and sampling than to put together an acoustic band. Baile funk reached the ears of American hipsters in 2004, with the release of M.I.A. and Diplo’s Piracy Funds Terrorism mixtape. Today’s baile funk track appears on that tape, in modified form. You can find scads more of the stuff at Funky Do Morro.

Finally, we’ve got a video from Drunken Tiger, the group credited with bringing hip-hop to Korea. As Korean-Americans, they blend Korean and English lyrics, which has become common practice for Korean pop stars. The video includes some wonderful shots from the movie Show, Show, Show depicting Korean life from the 1970s, before shiny had replaced shoddy, when Korea was known for shipbuilding and military dictatorship rather than animation and very slim cellphones.

[regime change begins abroad]

Topic: Foreign Affairs

At the beginning of this century, an outsider candidate from a wealthy background became the leader of a major country. He has been criticized throughout his rule for his manipulation of the national press and for his cozy relationship with big business, he has been embroiled in numerous scandals, and he led his nation into a war in Iraq against substantial domestic opposition. He has also managed to stir up controversy with his odd jokes and his comfort with some of his country’s more reprehensible historical practices.

And now he’s about to fall. Early reports are showing that Silvio Berlusconi will be defeated by Romano Prodi in the race for Prime Minister of Italy. If the elections actually go in favor of center-left Prodi (they still might not), it will be the end of Italy’s longest-serving postwar government, and also the downfall of one of President Bush’s most vigorous allies in Europe. Indeed, without Berlusconi, it really comes down to Tony Blair and a passel of Eastern Europeans.

I don’t know enough about Italy to make a terribly informed judgment, but everything I’ve read about Berlusconi, from the center-right (or should that be centre-right?) Economist to the New York Times to more liberal magazines like the New Yorker and the New York Review of Books, suggests that he has been deeply dangerous to Italian democracy, allowing flamboyance, casual offensiveness and media domination to stand in for actual policymaking and leadership.

I know almost nothing about Romano Prodi, but I would not be sad to see Berlusconi go.

[two exercises]

Topic: Korean Language

Here are two exercises from my Korean workbook.

1. Write about yourself, including your school year, nationality, major, hometown, and relationships with your friends.

우리 집은 뉴욕이에요. 저는 컬럼비아 대학에서 1993년에서 1997년까지 공부했어요. 한국어는 공부 안했어요. 영문학 전공이었어요.

저는 요즘 다시 학생이 되었어요. 한국어를 공부해요. 하지만 학교는 다니지 않아요. 주 국제연합 대한민국 대표부의 스피치 라이터이에요. 그래서 사무실에서 한국어를 공부해요. 제 동료이자 친구인 영애 씨는 또한 제 한국어 선생님이에요. 그녀는 인내심이 많아요.

Translation:

I live in New York. From 1993 to 1997, I studied at Columbia University. I didn’t study Korean. I majored in English.

These days, I have again become a student, studying Korean, but I don’t attend school. I’m a speechwriter for the Permanent Mission of the Republic of Korea to the United Nations, so I study Korean at the office. My colleague and friend Young-ae is also my Korean teacher. She is very patient.

2. Write about a close friend.

제니는 우리 아내예요. 우리는 사이가 아주 좋아요. 아내는 아주 예뻐요, 그리고 그녀는 아주 똑똑해요. 스페인어와 프랑스어와 조금 일본어를 말해요. 경영 컨설탄트예요.

제니는 용감해요. 저와 한국과 네팔과 인도를 여행했어요. 우리는 한국에서 영어를 가르쳤어요. 우리는 네팔의 히말라야 산맥에서 하이킹했어요. 저는 그녀를 아주 사랑해요.

Translation:

Jenny is my wife. We get along really well. My wife is very pretty and highly intelligent. She speaks Spanish, French and a little Japanese. She’s a management consultant.

Jenny is brave. She went with me to Korea, Nepal and India. In Korea, we taught English. In Nepal, we hiked in the Himalayas. I love her very much.

[the strategy for ’06]

Topic: Politics

I am beginning to see the outlines of a Republican strategy for this year’s Congressional elections, and I don’t like what I see.

The Dems have been sitting around waiting for the Republicans to implode, and the GOP has done its share to make an implosion seem likely. Bush’s post-Katrina approval ratings are disastrous, while the Congressional leadership is mired in scandal. Candidates for Congress, and potential candidates for the presidency in ’08, have been scrambling to distance themselves from the party leadership.

The obvious thing for that leadership to do is try to consolidate its hold over the party, searching for issues that all Republicans can agree on and that force the Dems to take unpopular positions. Instead, the Republicans are up to something much more clever.

What’s Bush’s most recent big public failure? The Dubai ports deal, which was opposed by many members of both parties. And what issue has the president trotted out as the midterm elections grow near? Massive immigration reform, with enough in it to alienate both hardliners and pro-immigrant groups. On the face of it, this looks like another chance for Republican failure. But consider what happens when incumbent Republican Congressional candidates take this stuff back to their districts. They get to tell the folks back home that they protected our ports from scary A-rabs, that they’re fighting to keep illegal aliens from further sullying the good ol’ US of A, and that they’re standing up to the president.

And what will the Dems say? That they couldn’t decide where to stand on the Dubai thing? That they agree with some parts of Bush’s immigration plan but not others? That we shouldn’t be distracted by issues so pressing that thousands of immigrants poured into the streets in protest, but should focus instead on the administration’s failures with Katrina (so 2005!) and Iraq (such a downer!)? And as far as scandal goes, how long can you keep talking about the Hammer once he’s gone? The real issue is security — securing our borders to keep out the scary brown folk, that is. I think we’re going to see an ugly nativist campaign this fall that leaves the Democrats trying to squirm out of being tagged the party of illegal aliens and coziness with Arabs. (Try not to let the cognitive dissonance of that last one give you a migraine.)

I have until now given the Democratic Party a certain benefit of the doubt in terms of coming up with a solid platform. It’s still early for that, and the longer your platform is out there, the more time the opposition has to shoot holes in it. But the elections are drawing ever nearer, and this keep-silent approach won’t work for much longer, especially as the White House lobs hot potatoes.

Of course, all this is predicated on a Republican strategy of further destroying the current presidency. But how much do they need Bush anyway? The man is incapable of vetoing pork, and if the GOP holds Congress this year, they can enact whatever they want. They don’t want the federal government to be effective at much of anything anyway. Bush will be a lame duck no matter what after the November elections, so why not start separating him from the party now? If the GOP strategy works in ’06, I can guarantee you that in ’08, some Republican will run for president as an outsider intent on cleaning up Washington.

Dems, is there a plan to counter any of this?

[weekly world music 5: women’s laments]

Topic: Music

Khongorzul and Baterdene: The River Herlen
(The Silk Road: A Musical Caravan)

La Macarena: Andalusia: Saeta
(World Library Of Folk & Primitive Music, Vol. 4: Spain)

Seopyeonje (Film): Sonchangka


Mongolian singer Ganbaatar Khongorzul.

It’s hard to imagine a voice more perfect for the Mongolian steppe than that of Ganbaatar Khongorzul, whose extraordinary vocal performance sounds as if it were designed to carry over great windswept distances. This recording was made as part of Yo-Yo Ma’s Silk Road Project, a fascinating musical journey that began with field recordings and eventually developed into the Silk Road Ensemble.

According to the Silk Road Project website:

Khongorzul Ganbaatar began her professional musical studies at the age of twenty-two. She was raised in the Mongolian province of Khentii where singing urtiin duu [OOR tin DOO] (a Mongolian vocal genre, literally long song) is ubiquitous as entertainment. She never sang publicly during her adolescence. On an impulse, she auditioned for the Than Khentii Folk Ensemble and was accepted as a member of the group.

“Saeta” is a field recording made in Andalucia by the great folklorist Alan Lomax, who is probably best remembered for capturing numerous Southern blues musicians. The Saeta, a mournful serenade to the Virgin Mary, is a traditional part of the Andalucian celebration of Semana Santa, or Holy Week. This particular recording may have been the inspiration for the gorgeous “Saeta” on Miles Davis and Gil Evans’s classic Sketches of Spain.

And finally, we have “Sonchangka,” a wrenching Pansori performance from Im Kwon-taek’s film Seopyeonje. Pansori is a Korean musical form that is part opera, part griot. It developed in the southern province of Jeolla-do, long considered a backwater and neglected by both the Joseon dynasty and modern governments until its native son, Kim Dae-jung, was elected president of South Korea in 1998. Supposedly many pansori songs are satirical attacks on the ruling class, but when I attended an outdoor performance in Jeongeup, the home city of pansori, a man sitting next to me helpfully filled in the plot of each song as it began. Invariably, the story was that the woman’s husband had gone away, and she was lamenting his absence.

I don’t speak Korean nearly well enough to understand the lyrics of this particular piece, but it might help to know that abeoji (아버지), which the singer cries out several times, means “father,” and that in the film, the singer’s father tries to inspire his daughter to more impassioned, mournful singing by giving her a drug that blinds her. (Remember, eo in Korean romanization is pronounced like the a in all.) Certainly that’s one way to get han, but I don’t recommend trying it at home.