[the road to reunification]

Topic: North Korea

The New York Times today has a front page article on the new “special economic zone” in North Korea, near Kaesong, where the first joint North-South products since the division — stainless steel cookware — have recently been manufactured and sent to market in South Korea. The article is a useful counterbalance to deeply grim reports about how the North is destitute, miserable and primed to attack the South. But it does raise an obvious question: which perspective is the right one? Is North Korea turning itself, little by little, into China — an economically vigorous and globally engaged but still repressive dictatorship — or is it a Stalinist nightmare on the verge of collapse?

The answer may be a bit of both, and the economic development may be, as critics claim, merely a ploy by the regime to bring in enough hard cash to survive. Still, I’m not sure that’s a problem. A total collapse of the regime would not be a salutary experience. At best, it would mean dealing with a vast humanitarian crisis, with South Korea’s economy straining to the limit to try to integrate the North. Foreign intervention would be an absolute necessity, and that would presumably mean American intervention, which could get very uncomfortable, because it would almost certainly take the form of ongoing division, at least at first. The brainwashed population of the North is not exactly ready for prime time, which means that a democratic Korea immediately reunified would be unacceptable: the Northerners, having been taught since birth that Americans are devils, would all vote to have us thrown out, and they might also push for war on Manchuria. There is also the dire possibility that a collapsing regime might be taken over by bellicose generals who figure it’s now or never and launch an attack on the South.

The scenario of economic development is slower, but it’s also far easier to imagine it working out. Let’s say that the North really is only trying to raise a little cash. Even so, a taste of wealth is likely to encourage further efforts in that direction, and economic development has a way of taking on its own momentum. If nothing else, cronyist interests at the top will want a bigger economy to loot. Economic development pretty much by definition means increasing contact between North Koreans and outsiders, which will gradually erode the regime’s near-total monopoly of information. (China still maintains tight control over information, but nothing like North Korea’s news blackout.) It will also increase the general level of wealth, hopefully to the point that an average North Korean could plausibly save up enough money to spend a few days vacationing in Seoul.

Most importantly, economic cooperation encourages diplomatic cooperation, because the North and South will have shared interests. Instead of seeing war as an all-or-nothing proposition, the North, or forces in the North, would come to see war as a potential threat to thriving economic enterprises. And this, more than anything else, could eventually end the standoff between the two Koreas. It even reduces the pressure for reunification: if the citizens of the two Koreas can travel freely throughout the peninsula, work in each other’s countries, buy each other’s goods, call each other on cell phones, then why worry about fusing the two governments? That can come when the era of division has slipped from memory, such that no one in either government can quite understand why you’d have two governments instead of one. They can then move the capital to Kaesong — a compromise location, away from either present capital but with a history as the capital of the Goryeo kingdom.

That’s my fantasy, anyway. I recognize that it leaves a lot out, not least the question of what would prompt the North to give up its repression of its people. But I think that economic engagement is the safest way forward, and the way most likely to succeed without massive chaos first.

[superdish]

Topic: Culture

So there was some big football game yesterday, and from what I understand, we now have a dynasty toward which we’re supposed to be patriotic. Or was that the election? Anyhoo, we all know that the important part of the Superbowl is not the game (unless the 49ers are involved, which is not likely to happen again soon). Rather, what matters are the commercials. As such, I didn’t bother to watch the game, but I did watch the commercials on IFILM.

This year’s batch were, to put it mildly, dumb. About the cleverest thing going was FedEx’s deconstruction of the Superbowl ad, and it wasn’t that clever. The GoDaddy.com series, featuring a big-boobed bimbo shaking her thing at some kind of Congressional-type hearing on GoDaddy’s ad campaign, was just embarrassing — as smart and sexy as date rape at a frat party. Visa’s superhero ad was at least moderately impressive for its awesome display of licensing prowess. Mostly, though, the ads were sloppy, often incoherent, and really, really stupid. Some were entertaining, but nothing stood out as great. In fact, the real standout was the Degree ad with the Mama’s Boy doll, which went beyond stupid and trashy and into the deeply disturbing.

I’d say that this reflects something terribly important about American culture, but it doesn’t. It reflects something about the culture of the American advertising industry, which is showing deep uncertainty in an era of tight corporate budgets and shifting Middle American values, because of course the twentysomething hot-shots in Manhattan offices have no real clue about Middle American values. So we get softcore porn, jokes about softcore porn, and meta-ads.

[alphabets]

Topic: Culture

If you’re a language geek, you can probably have hours of fun browsing AncientScripts.com, which is full of alphabets, ancient and modern, organized according to geography and language families. Personal favorites include Malayalam, which looks how it sounds, and Cherokee, a syllabary invented by Sequoia, who was illiterate but grasped the concept of an alphabet while working in a printer’s shop.

[a kingdom in crisis]

Topic: Nepal

As you may know, King Gyanendra of Nepal recently sacked the government of Sher Bahadur Deuba and put himself in charge. When I first read about the move, I had a feeling of deja vu: The king had done the same thing — to the same prime minister — in 2001, just days after we’d arrived in Kathmandu.

I don’t have all that much to add to the international coverage. But I’m subscribed to the mailing list for the CIWEC Clinic, the best source of Western medicine in Nepal, and today they sent out this email:

The king has taken over in Kathmandu. Immediately after his
announcement all phone lines and internet connections to Nepal were cut.

Many flights are now operating, but the phones and internet are still out as of 4 Feb morning and newspapers and television in Nepal is censored.

Please check http://www.nepalbbs.com for news and information about the situation in Nepal.

Phone lines were never before cut, even during the 1990 revolution or the Royal Massacre in 2001. This is an ominous sign.

[lunch]

Topic: The Mission

Last night I told Jenny that I would be taken out for lunch today.

“Again?” she asked.

It’s true that we get fed just ridiculously often at this job. In fact, just last night there was a reception in honor of something to do with the proposed Convention on the Rights of the Disabled, a project on which our Minister Kang has taken a leadership role. According to a Bosnian woman I met there, Korea has a reputation for having good spreads at our functions, and last night the buffet was in high form: sushi, fried and steamed dumplings, beef cubes, smoked salmon croquettes, lavish desserts, songpyeon (pounded rice cakes, pictured above). In fact, much of the fun last night was watching the many non-Korean guests try to figure out the tteok:

“What is that?”

“Is it sweet?”

“No, it’s … it’s kind of salty.”

“Is it good?”

“I’m not sure.”

Today a large group of us were taken to Woo Chon, a fine Korean restaurant on 36th Street. This is the same place where we went way back in December for barbecue, but today’s lunch was more subdued, if only slightly. There was still soju (rice wine), this time with cucumber steeping in it, which gave it a surprising delicacy and lightness. Then there were numerous shared dishes, including some Korean-Chinese sweet and sour chicken, as well as the dreaded nakji (octopus). And then came the dishes we’d ordered for ourselves. I’d asked for samgyetang (a mild soup consisting of ginseng, jujubes and a whole spring chicken stuffed with rice, pictured right), which elicited a round of knowing o-o-oh’s from everyone. At first I thought this was because I’d ordered in Korean, which consisted of using the word “chuseyo,” which means “please bring me.” But later Yoo Dae-jung explained to me that samgyetang is “good for health — especially men.” It’s normally a summer dish, but I was craving it, and Woo Chon served the best I’ve ever had, in a bowl that could easily serve two. Woo Chon serves by far the best Korean food I’ve had in Manhattan, and in New York its only rival is Kum Gang San in Flushing. Of course, this is based on my fairly limited sampling. Still, if you’re looking for quality, authentic Korean cuisine, you could do worse than Woo Chon — which, of course, gets the seal of approval from a passel of Korean diplomats.

[six months]

Topic: The Mission

Today marks my six-month anniversary at the Korean Mission. This is primarily relevant because it means I’m now eligible for vacation days, but it’s also an exciting milestone in itself. I’ve been here for half a year, and all is well. It’s still the best job I’ve ever had.

I don’t think I’ve ever had a job before where I wasn’t basically hating it by the six-month mark. Even at DoubleClick, which I came to enjoy considerably by the end of my three years there, the six-month mark was not auspicious. I was dreadfully arrogant about my own brilliance, while at the same time hopelessly undercommitted to performing any actual work, and this had understandably irked my boss, who probably would have fired me had she not been busy doubling the size of the department every six months, and had my attitude not been relatively common among the rapidly expanding staff of stock-optioned twentysomethings (it was a dot-com). So at six months, I was already fuming and plotting my escape, at least from the department.

And as for STV, my only other corporate job to last that long, let’s just say that I’ll probably never be truly happy at a company whose name is an acronym that doesn’t stand for anything.

The one other job at which I lasted more than six months was teaching English in Korea, and here’s what I had to say as the six-month anniversary approached:

It’s a poetic accident that the midpoint of our stay in Korea falls pretty much on April Fool’s Day. We have been here six months now, and we will be here for another six months, and so we have reached what people call “the Hump.”

It’s a curious metaphor when you stop to think about it. Is it supposed to imply that it’s all downhill from here? And if so, does that mean it gets easier or that it gets worse? I do feel sort of like those climbers who summit Everest — not triumphant, just dazed, oxygen-starved and worried that the descent is the most difficult part of the journey. Jenny’s been sick for the last week with what was finally diagnosed as severe bronchitis, and I’ve been working too many hours while trying to take care of everything around the house. So when I walked into my classroom at the kindergarten on Friday to discover that all my students’ artwork had been removed, the side table had been moved across the room, a long coat rack had been placed in the only free space in the room, the toys were spread all over the place, and there were someone else’s students sitting around the table, I just lost it.

So I suppose this really is the first time I’ve hit six months and felt, if anything, more positive about the job than I did at the beginning. I think I may stick with this for a while.

Bonus: While I was digging through old emails to see how I felt about Korea at the six-month mark, I ran across this video of Jenny and me at our professional best.

[what was that you said?]

Topic: Around Town

While surfing the nominees for the 2005 Bloggies, I stumbled across a fabulous collective blog that gets at one of the rich pleasures of New York life: Overheard in New York. New York throws together an incredibly diverse mix of people, and we spend a tremendous time within earshot of each other, absorbing fragments of passing conversation and culture — a chador walking past a bikini top, a blast of salsa giving way to the thud of Punjabi-influenced hip-hop, the scent of honey-roasted peanuts mingling with clouds of kebab smoke. And, of course, little snippets of conversation that you just can’t ignore. It can get overwhelming at times, but it’s also why I live here.

[two jews, two many opinions]

Topic: Afghanistan

Today the BBC reported that Afghanistan is down to its last Jew. There used to be two, and what did the two Jews do? They squabbled over control of the synagogue, accusing each other of apostasy and of being at fault for the Taleban’s confiscation of their Torah scroll. Not that I want to go trafficking in all the worst stereotypes, but this is like learning that the two Irishmen on a desert island get drunk every night and fight, or that the Belgians in a lifeboat have established an institutional framework for dying of thirst. It’s painful, that’s what it is.

[learning korean]

Topic: Korea

Yesterday I had my first Korean language class at The Korea Society. I’ve decided to start at the Basic level, despite my prior dabblings in Korean, because it’s always easier to go over the basics with a language than to try to catch up when you’ve missed something important. That being said, yesterday’s class was almost totally unnecessary for me, as it mostly covered hangeul, the Korean alphabet, which I already know quite well.

What was most interesting, then, was the part of the class when we all introduced ourselves and explained why we were taking Korean. Out of the twenty students, six were there because they had Korean spouses or fiances and wanted to be able to communicate with their in-laws, three were Korean-Americans (including one who’d come with her fiance) who hoped to be able to talk to their own families, and one woman had an adopted Korean daughter. Then there were those of us who were learning the language for professional reasons, like the Japanese woman who works as a news translator and sometimes has to deal with articles from Korea, or the young man who wanted to get into the military or other security work. Beyond that, there was a guy who is thinking of living in Asia, a woman who decided to take the class because her daughter is also learning Korean, and a couple of people who just love languages.

The teacher, Shin-Hark Suk (pictured above), began teaching Korean in 1984 and has been giving classes at the Korea Society for 9 years. Having tried my hand at teaching language, it was interesting to watch a veteran go at it. Considering how little there was for me to learn during this first session, it’s difficult to judge how well she taught, but I was impressed by the packet she handed out to help us learn the Korean alphabet. She’d designed it herself, creating mnemonic pictures for each Korean letter, in which the letter formed part of an image of something that begins with the same sound. She has a curious habit of punctuating her speech with the word “yes,” drawn out and extended: “This letter — ye-e-es — makes a ‘guh’ sound — ye-e-es — looks like goose — ye-e-es.” But she seems friendly enough, and I expect that she’ll be a perfectly serviceable guide to the Korean language.

I’m sure I’ll have more to say as the class progresses.

[the new beck record]

Beck – Guero

The new Beck is coming! The new Beck is coming! The new Beck is coming!

Apparently the new Beck record, Guero, which will be released on March 29, was accidentally leaked to the Internet. Popadopalis has the title track.

I’ll admit that I was a bit nervous about Beck’s reunion with the Dust Brothers. Odelay is a fascinating record, but it’s never been my favorite, and I’ve preferred the soulful Beck of Mutations and Sea Change. I was concerned that Beck, now a married father and a Scientologist, might come out with a rehash of a record, an overproduced trifle.

Guero, at least, is nothing like that. A Spanglish funk groove, it manages to sound immediately like Beck, but with all kinds of twists and flavors that feel new. Beck grew up in a Mexican part of Los Angeles and has long played with Mexican sounds, the most obvious such experiment being Burro, a full-on mariachi version of the song Jackass that I prefer to the original. This new track calls to mind both Beck of the Odelay era and WAR without sounding like either. Check it out.